There’s a magic in the way the Istrian sun shines on the rolling hills, casting long shadows over vineyards and olive orchards, as we pedal through this special corner of Croatia. Our journey, a cycling adventure through the Istrian region, has been nothing short of a romantic escape, filled with breathtaking scenery, amazing cuisine, and ancient landmarks.
We (Mr. and Mrs. Budr) visit the region nearly every year to see family, while road biking has become more popular we prefer the strade bianche, or white roads through the olive groves and vineyards that connect the small towns. Cycling in the region can be split up in a few routes, through the flat terrain in the central south which generally wander through the agricultural zones, along the sea, or to the older, iconic villages perched on top of the hills in the north.
Olives and vineyards
Our adventure began in the quaint town of Vodnjan, where time seems to stand still. The narrow, cobblestone streets led us through a maze of colorful houses. As we cycled past the town's historic buildings, we couldn’t resist stopping to admire the impressive St. Blaise Church, home to the tallest bell tower in Istria. The scent of freshly baked bread from a local bakery wafted through the air, tempting us to stop for a quick snack and espressos before continuing our journey.
To the Sea:
From Vodnjan, we made our way to Fažana, a picturesque fishing village perched on the edge of the Adriatic Sea. The crystal-clear waters sparkled under the midday sun, and we took a moment to rest by the shore, soaking in the beauty of the sea. Fažana is also the gateway to the Brijuni Islands, and though we didn’t venture to the islands. Lunch in Fažana was a feast for the senses, with fresh seafood and local wines that perfectly complemented the stunning seaside views. Gelato is a must anywhere in the region and Fažana has several of our favorite shops.
Our next stop was the bustling town of Pula, a place where ancient history meets modern life. As we cycled through the city, we were awestruck by the grandeur of the Pula Arena, the 5th largest in the word, a Roman amphitheater that has stood the test of time. Pula’s lively markets and cafes provided the perfect backdrop for any afternoon. We spent many evenings there as well watching the sunset behind the Arena before a seafood and carb heavy dinner at nearby Fažana.
The Parenzan Trail
Leaving the coast behind, we headed inland towards Livade, a small village known as the truffle capital of Istria. Also there starts the Parenzana trail, a gravel trail which was once an ancient railroad route passing through the mountains and offering amazing vistas of the hillside. The trial wound through lush forests and pastures, offering glimpses of the region’s rich natural beauty. In Livade, we couldn’t resist indulging in a truffle-infused meal at a local konoba. The flavors were as rich and complex as the landscape around us, making for an unforgettable culinary experience.
From Livade, we continued to the tiny village of Gradinje, where the pace of life slows to a gentle rhythm. Here, we found ourselves surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards, with the occasional farmhouse dotting the landscape. The serenity of Gradinje was the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of everyday life, allowing us to reconnect with each other and the natural world around us.
Our final destination was the hilltop town of Motovun, a place that seems plucked from the pages of a fairy tale. As we approached the town, the view took our breath away – a medieval fortress perched atop a hill, overlooking the vast Istrian countryside. The magic of Motovun, with its ancient walls and romantic atmosphere, was the perfect end to our journey.
Cycling through Istria has been more than just a physical journey; it has been a journey of the heart. With every turn of the pedal, we discovered new landscapes, tasted new flavors, and created memories that will last a lifetime. Although Istria is just a small part of Croatia, we call it home and have never had never felt the need to visit the rest of the country which is just as amazing.
